Skip to content

Garden chart

Pruning Calendar Chart by Plant Type

The general rule is to prune spring-flowering shrubs right after they finish blooming (they set next year's buds on old wood soon after), and to prune summer-flowering shrubs and most trees while dormant in late winter (they bloom on new growth made that season). Pruning at the wrong time doesn't usually kill a plant, but it can sacrifice a year of flowers.

Pruning Calendar Chart by Plant Type
Plant typeBest pruning windowWhy
Spring-flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, azalea)Immediately after floweringThey set next year's buds on old wood shortly after blooming
Summer-flowering shrubs (butterfly bush, hydrangea paniculata)Late winter/early spring, dormantThey bloom on new growth made the same season
Roses (most types)Early spring, as buds swellRemoves winter dieback and shapes new growth
Fruit trees (apple, pear)Late winter, dormantEasier to see structure without leaves; heals before growth resumes
Stone fruit (cherry, plum)Mid-summer, after harvestPruning when dormant increases disease risk in stone fruit
Evergreen shrubs (boxwood, yew)Late spring to midsummerAfter the first flush of new growth hardens off
Ornamental grassesLate winter/early springCut back before new growth emerges
Perennials (die-back type)Fall or early springEither after frost kills top growth or before new growth starts
Maple and birch (bleeders)Mid-summer or after leaf-outPruned dormant, they 'bleed' sap heavily from cuts

Notes

  • When in doubt about a shrub's bloom timing, wait to prune until right after it flowers — this is the safe default that never sacrifices next year's blooms.
  • Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood any time of year regardless of the calendar; that guidance is only about timing for shaping and rejuvenation cuts.
  • Avoid heavy pruning in late summer/early fall on most plants — it can stimulate tender new growth that won't harden off before frost.

Put this into practice

More charts like this