Interior Door Adjustment: Fixing Sticking, Sagging, and Slamming

3 min read · Last reviewed March 2026

Most sticking doors need a screwdriver, not a plane. Try the cheap fix before the destructive one.

Editorial photograph illustrating interior door adjustment guide

Doors that stick, drag on the frame, or will not latch are usually a hinge or hardware issue rather than a sizing problem, and the fixes are ordered roughly from least to most invasive for a reason — most doors never need the last one.

Diagnose before touching anything

Door drags along the top or bottom on one side only: usually a loose or worn hinge letting the door sag.
Door will not latch, or the latch catches on the strike plate: usually a strike plate or latch alignment issue, not a sizing problem.
Door rubs evenly along its full length on one edge: this is the case where the door itself may actually need planing.
Door slams or will not stay open: hinge tension or an out-of-level frame.

Fix loose hinges first

Check each hinge screw for looseness by hand; tighten any that turn freely.
If a screw hole is stripped and will not tighten, remove the screw, insert a wood matchstick or golf tee with glue into the hole, snap it flush, let it dry, and re-drive the screw into fresh wood.
If the door sags noticeably, replace the top hinge's screws with longer 3-inch screws that reach into the framing stud behind the jamb, not just the jamb itself — this is the single most effective sag fix.

Fix latch and strike plate alignment second

If the door closes but does not latch, or latches with force, the strike plate on the frame likely needs to move slightly rather than the door needing any material removed. Loosen the strike plate screws, shift the plate up, down, or sideways by a small amount to align with the latch, and if needed, use a file to slightly enlarge the strike plate opening rather than moving the plate itself for small misalignments.

Planing is the last resort

Only plane a door if it drags evenly along a full edge with no hinge or strike issue present, which usually means seasonal wood swelling or an actual manufacturing size mismatch. Mark the rubbing area with chalk, close the door gently to transfer a mark, remove the door from its hinges, and plane only the marked high spots in thin passes, checking fit often rather than removing too much at once.

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix order
Door sags, drags on one corner	Loose top hinge	Tighten or replace with long screws
Won't latch	Strike plate misaligned	Adjust or file strike plate
Rubs evenly along one edge	Swelling or size mismatch	Plane in thin passes
Slams shut on its own	Frame or hinge out of plumb	Check hinge tension, shim frame if needed

Wood doors swell slightly in humid months and shrink back in dry ones. If a door only sticks for a few weeks a year in the same season, planing it to fit that season means it will be loose the rest of the year — a light sanding of the high-friction edge, rather than a full plane, is usually the more proportionate fix.

Should I plane a door before checking the hinges?

No — check and tighten hinges first. Planing removes material permanently, while a hinge adjustment is reversible and fixes the majority of sticking doors.

Why does my door only stick in summer?

Humidity causes wood to swell slightly. This is normal seasonal movement and rarely needs a permanent fix like planing unless it is severe.

Can I fix a sagging door without removing it from the frame?

Yes — the long-screw hinge fix and strike plate adjustments can both be done with the door still hanging on its hinges.

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