Choosing a Fence: Material, Height, and the Rules Nobody Reads

Most fence regret is not about the material chosen but about a rule missed beforehand: a height limit, a boundary line, or a shared-cost agreement with a neighbour. Settle those first, then choose the material.

Check before you buy anything

• Local height limits, which are often lower for front-facing than side or rear boundaries.
• The actual boundary line — a survey or deed plan, not the existing fence, which may already sit on the wrong side.
• Whether the finished side is required to face the neighbour's property, which is standard courtesy in many areas and a rule in some.
• Utility lines before digging any post holes.

Material comparison

Post spacing and depth decide durability more than the panels do

Posts set less than a third of their above-ground height into the soil rack loose within a few years, and this is the single most common fence failure regardless of the material chosen for the panels. Standard practice is one third of the total post length below grade, set in concrete, with a gravel base beneath the post to let water drain away from the end grain.

Shared boundary fences

Where a fence sits exactly on a shared boundary, many jurisdictions treat it as jointly owned regardless of who paid, which means both neighbours technically need to agree on removal or major changes even years later. A conversation and a simple written agreement before building avoids most future disputes.

Worked example: fencing a 100-foot backyard boundary

A 100-foot run at 8-foot post spacing needs 13 posts (100 divided by 8 rounds up to 13 spans, so 12 gaps plus one extra post at the start, or adjust spacing slightly so it divides evenly — 100 divided by 12 gaps is about 8.3 feet per span). Each post needs a hole roughly a third of its total length deep: an 8-foot post above ground with 3 feet buried needs an 11-foot post purchased and a hole about 3 feet down, filled with one to two bags of fast-setting concrete per post depending on hole diameter.

Planning and building sequence

1. Confirm the legal boundary line with a survey or deed plan before marking anything.
2. Check local height limits and any homeowners' association or permit requirements.
3. Call for utility line marking before digging any post holes.
4. Mark post locations at consistent spacing and check string lines are straight and square.
5. Dig and set posts in concrete, checking plumb on two sides as each one cures.
6. Attach rails once all posts have fully cured, then hang panels or boards last.

• Common mistake: setting posts to a rough eyeball spacing instead of a measured, even span, which leaves an oddly narrow gap at the end of the run.
• Common mistake: backfilling with plain soil instead of concrete on a full-height privacy fence, leading to leaning posts within a couple of seasons.
• Common mistake: building right up to the surveyed line instead of a few inches inside it, leaving no margin for measurement error or future disputes.
• Common mistake: skipping the neighbour conversation on a shared boundary fence, then facing resistance when it eventually needs replacing.

Matching style to purpose

A pool or child-safety fence usually needs to meet specific self-closing gate and minimum height rules that ordinary boundary fences do not, so check those requirements separately before choosing a style. Decorative picket fencing suits front yards where privacy is not the goal, while full-height solid panels suit rear yards where privacy and wind screening matter more than curb appeal.

What fencing actually costs installed

Rocky, sloped, or heavily rooted ground can add 15-30% to labour cost since posts need to be hand-dug or augered around obstructions instead of machine-drilled. Get at least two quotes if hiring out — post spacing, hole depth, and concrete volume vary enough between installers that a per-foot quote alone does not guarantee comparable quality.